No Bourbon For Me

Bourbon Street in New Orleans is loud and brash and a little bit gaudy. Oh, there’s no denying it’s attraction to tourists. The music and bars and restaurants should be experienced by every visitor, at least once while staying in “N’awlins”. However, Bourbon street is not necessarily the only game in town. Not far away from the French Quarter is a much more
authentic music and food experience: Frenchmen Street. Located in the Faubourg Marigny neighbourhood, Frenchmen street is home to some of New Orlean’s most revered live music venues. At least a dozen bars and clubs are squeezed along a short three block stretch in the Marigny section Continue reading “No Bourbon For Me”

Any Time is Cava Time

Many consider champagne and other sparkling wines to be only for special occasions like New Year’s Eve.  Click on the “Continue reading” link below to see why Pangeans think “any time is cava time”.

You can also check out our newest review, on the Artcava Winery and Tour here:

http://pangean.org/reviews/artcava-winery-and-tour/

Artcava Tasting Room – Catalunya

Continue reading “Any Time is Cava Time”

Artcava Winery and Tour

Impressions: Pangeans generally prefer smaller, family-owned operations to the large big box producers (think Nalle Wines of the Dry Creek appellation in Sonoma or Walsh Whiskey Distillery of Royal Oak, Ireland: http://pangean.org/reviews/walsh-whiskey-distillery-tour/).  This is especially the case when it comes to something as important as wine. Pangeans believe you get a far better sense of the wine when you are able to speak directly to the winemaker and hear the passion in their voice.  You can also see the actual vineyards where the wine was born and see their viticultural policies put into practice.

Our October 2016 tour of Artcava Winery in the Penedès Valley wine region of Catalunya was exactly what a Pangean would opt for if given the chance.  Barcelona was the last stop and embarkation point for a 12 night cruise through the western med and our flights to the next destination were late in the day.  We wanted to make the most of our time, but faced the problem of what to do with luggage for the day. Since they provided the service of holding our luggage in the van, we opted to spring for a full day private tour through Barcelona Day Tours (excellent service BTW) with a request to see Montserrat and “a cava winery”.  This particular Pangean has always been partial to authentic sparkling wines produced according to the méthode traditionelle (a.k.a. méthode champenoise) and cava from the Penedès valley of Catalunya is some of the world’s best: fresh, crisp flavours with good acidity balance – all reasonably priced.

The choice of Artcava as the winery was made by Barcelona Day Tours, but we couldn’t have been more pleased with their choice.  Artcava is a relatively new winery elbowing its way into the field dominated by Freixenet (the largest producer supplying a majority of the world’s supply of cava) and Codorníu (the oldest producer cava dating back to the 16th century).  A partnership of Eric, the winemaker, Ignasi, the businessman, and Ramon, the foodie, Artcava refer to themselves as the best kept secret in the Penedes region.  In their own words: “We are a small, charming winery located in one of the most important wine regions in Europe, The Penedès …. We make a modest 15,000 bottles of quality artisan cava a year with our own hands, adding nothing, no chemicals, no funny business, only love.” The winery offers a selection of tours, tastings, and cava workshops, as well as gastronomic lunches and catalonian cooking instructions.

We participated in the basic tour and tasting, led by winemaker and CEO Eric, which lasted approximately 90 minutes.  It included a brief history discussion, a tour through the 1000 year old farmhouse, a tour of the wine cave, an explanation of the champagne method of secondary fermentation in the bottle, a tour of the riddling, disgorging, and labelling facility, followed by an opportunity to taste the wines (which range in price from 9.15 € to 16.95 € per bottle).  The tour is offered year round, generally at 10:30 (though I think other special times can be arranged since our tour was in the afternoon) and costs 12 € / person for 1 to 20 people. Pours were extremely generous and Eric is extremely personable as well as knowledgable.  Artcava also offers a “Create Your Own Cava” workshop that includes the tour, tasting, and a blending and bottling workshop where you create your own bottle of cava (3 hours).  Cost is 42 € which includes the bottle of your own cava to take with you.  You can also opt for a Half Day tour that includes a hearty country breakfast either in the vineyard or in the 1000 year old farmhouse (depending on the weather) for 56 € / person, and a Full Day Tour that includes both breakfast and lunch for 84 € / person.  You can also book separate gastronomic lunches and workshops including a “Create Your Own Paella” workshop for 50 € / person that includes the workshop, lunch and cava.  For more information: http://en.artcava.com

Details:  Artcava Winery and Tour – Masia Can Batlle, Avinyonet de Penedès, 08793 Barcelona; Ph: +34 647 90 67 42; www.artcava.com

For transport to the winery Artcava suggests: “The Artcava winery is located near the train station Lavern-Subirats, in the wine region of the Penedès. The train ride takes about 40 minutes from Sants Station (in the centre of Barcelona) and costs 3,80 euros per journey. We can arrange to pick you up from the station and bring you to the winery (It’s about a 5 minute drive) and of course later we will drop you back to the station.”  For groups of 12 or more the winery suggests direct transport from Barcelona and they offer to make arrangements.  For this service and pick-up from the train station their contact is:  reserves@artcava.com

RatingP P P P P P – The ArtCava Winery and Tour is awarded a very emphatic 6 P’s or “Excellent” on the Pangean.org scale.  We would highly recommend it to other Pangeans and we’ll head back there to create our own cava next time we’re in Barcelona. The setting is beautiful and the 1000 year old farm house used is memorable.

Hotel Isaacs Cork City

Impressions: The Hotel Isaacs Cork City is not a fancy hotel, but it does all the little things right.  Staff is extremely friendly and helpful (especially Dan at the front desk), the beds are comfortable, the rooms are clean, and the breakfast is excellent.  The rooms have recently been renovated and the street side rooms even have extra glass panes for soundproofing. Parking is available offsite in secured church yard about a block from the hotel and the area appears safe to walk in with restaurants, pubs, and shops aplenty. The hotel’s own restaurant Greenes (its executive chef Bryan McCarthy was voted best chef in Cork in 2015 over 960 other chefs), is excellent.  Dan at the front desk provided a wealth of information and dining suggestions.  His recommendation of the Shelbourne Pub, which is located directly across the street from the hotel and boasts up to 150 whiskeys on offer, was spot on.

Details:  Hotel Isaacs Cork City, 48 MacCurtain Street, Cork City, Ireland (Latitude 53.350577 Longitude -8.4681332). Tel: 0035321 4500011  Email: info@hotelisaacscork.com Website: www.hotelisaacscork.com  Directions: http://isaacshotelcork.com/directions

Rating: P P P P P – The Hotel Isaacs Cork City is awarded 5 P’s or “Very Good” on the Pangean.org scale.  We would definitely stay here again and would highly recommend it to other Pangeans.

La Casa di Piero 2 – Rome

Impressions:  First the good: the location in the Prati district of Rome, close to shopping, restaurants and the Vatican was excellent. There was a grocery store below street level in the same block and it was less than a 10 minute walk to the Vatican Museums entrance. The Unit we eventually ended up in was clean and the fellow who gave us the keys and showed us around was friendly, spoke excellent English, and was extremely helpful, providing directions to buses and restaurants in the area. The elevator was also funky.  Unfortunately, the booking.com and Continue reading “La Casa di Piero 2 – Rome”

Check Out Our First Reviews

We’re excited to add our first full review on the Pangean.org website.  And the distinction of being the first goes to the Walsh Whiskey Distillery Tour. Check it out here:  http://pangean.org/reviews/walsh-whiskey-distillery-tour/

We’ve also added a couple of hotel reviews:

Walsh Whiskey Distillery Tour

Walsh Whiskey Distillery Building
Walsh Whiskey Distillery Building
The Stillhouse - Three Pot Stills and a Column Still
The Stillhouse – Three Pot Stills and a Column Still

Impressions:          Pangeans love whiskey (or whisky as it is known in those jurisdictions that have something against an extra vowel) and this particular Pangean has a fondness for Irish single pot still whiskey. Of late, Writer’s Tears – Copper Pot by Walsh Whiskey Distillery has been this Pangean’s ‘go to’ bottle on the shelf.  Therefore when a stop on the emerald isle was added to a recent tour the prospect of seeking out the ancestral home of my favourite dram was a powerful draw. Other Pangeans on the team were also interested, more by the process than by the ultimate product.  On both bases we were not disappointed.

Although Walsh Whiskey has been around since about 1999, up until this year actual distillation took place at an undisclosed — wink wink — Midleton Distilleries Complex — wink wink — location.  However, earlier in 2016 and with the help of a 25 Million Euro outside investment, the reality of a stand-alone, state of the art, craft distillery came to fruition. The Distillery and Tour officially opened in June 2016. The location and grounds in County Carlow Ireland are beautiful and many of the facilities are obviously new. From the entrance gate (with each of its stones reputedly disassembled and reconstructed with a wide enough stance to allow access by buses) to the driveway that gently curves through the pastures and mature oak, to the views of Holloden House (built circa 1755), to the ruins of the old barns and stable yard, to the shiny new distillery building, the grounds are a visual treat.  Maybe it was the fact that this particular group of Pangeans arrived on a splendid autumn day, but the colours and views were beautiful.

View of Holloden House from the Boardroom
View of Holloden House from the Boardroom

 

The website and promotional literature suggest that the ultimate plan is for Holloden House to be restored so that it can house a visitor centre with tasting room, gift shop, tea room and other facilities.  However, for now all of the visitor services are run from the distillery building itself.  The tour, the cost of which includes a sample of The Irishman Single Malt Founders Reserve, takes approximately one hour.  The current tour takes you first to the main boardroom, then to the lobby for a discussion of grains, the malting process, and the joys of the water from the Barrow Valley Aquifer (sitting immediately below the distillery).  From there you are led through the facility to the fermentation tanks and are invited to breathe in the smells of the grains and wort as they become ready for the distillation process. You can even poke your head into some of the tanks that have been recently emptied.  It is all a very sensory experience as you can feel the heat from the tanks, smell the heady aromas, hear the hum of the machinery, and see the gleaming copper and stainless steel.  After dropping off  phones, cameras and other electronic equipment that would pose an explosive hazard due to the high alcohol content in the air within, you then are taken into the stillhouse itself.  The staff are obviously proud of the fact that the facility is the only independent distillery in the world to make all three types of whiskey: pot still, malt, and grain.  In the single stillhouse there are both three 15,000 Litre copper pot stills and an approximately 12 metre high column still that together provide a capacity of 650,000 cases annually. The procedures and benefits of each process were explained and you can smell the output from various levels as well as the final clear, sweet-smelling product.  The facility is state-of-the-art, with the emphasis on distilling as an “art”. The process is almost entirely manual, with the still masters making decisions by eye, nose, and hydrometer reading.  The tour then concludes with a return to the bar in the lobby area for a taste of one of the Walsh Whiskey offerings.  Usually this is the aforementioned The Irishman Single Malt Founders Reserve, but on the day we visited the guide was pouring Writer’s Tears (apparently a combination of 8, 9, and  10 year old “single pot still” and “single malt” whiskeys).

If you are in the area near mealtime you should also check out The Pint Depot, a small, authentic pub in Royal Oak.  Great service, incredibly friendly staff, good food, and Irish horse racing on the televisions – what more could a hungry traveler want?

I suspect that the people of Royal Oak, the nearby town of Muine Bheag, The Pint Depot, and Walsh Whiskey Distillery do not yet understand how many people will be attracted to the area.  The “Second Golden Age” of Irish Whiskey is upon us and the Walsh Whiskey Distillery will be an important stop on any tour.

Details:          The Walsh Whiskey Distillery is located at Royal Oak, Clorusk Lower, Carlow, Ireland. The cost of the approximately one hour tour (with tasting) is 15 Euros per person.  As of November 2016 they run Tuesdays through Fridays at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, and 16:00.   Tel: +353 59 918 6653 Email: booking@walshwhiskey.com    Website: walshwhiskey.com

Links:             Full Gallery:  http://pangean.org/photography/walsh-whiskey-distillery/

Walsh Whiskey website: http://walshwhiskey.com

Rating:           P P P P P P  The Walsh Whiskey Distillery tour is awarded 6 out of possible 7 P’s, or “Excellent” on the Pangean scale from “Avoid” to “Phenomenal”. This is as close as you can get to the almost unattainable 7 P’s.

Reviews

Artcava Winery and Tour (Barcelona, Catalonia) –  P P P P P P – View our review here: http://pangean.org/reviews/artcava-winery-and-tour/

Walsh Whiskey Distillery (Royal Oak, Ireland) – P P P P P P – View our review here:  http://pangean.org/reviews/walsh-whiskey-distillery-tour/

La Casa di Piero 2, Prati Rome, Italy  –  P P – View our review here:  http://pangean.org/reviews/casa-di-piero-2-rome/

Hotel Isaacs Cork City, Ireland – P P P P P  – View our review here:  http://pangean.org/reviews/hotel-isaacs-cork-city/ ‎

The Following Reviews are Coming Soon:

The Pangean Scale:

  • P P P P P P P = Phenomenal, not to be missed
  • P P P P P P = Excellent
  • P P P P P = Very Good
  • P P P P = Good
  • P P P = Fair
  • P P = Consider Carefully
  • P =  Avoid

Rental Cars in Ireland

europe2016832Beyond the obvious issue of the Irish insisting on driving on the wrong side of the road, the process of renting (aka “hiring”) a car in Ireland poses some extra challenges.  For one, the majority of vehicles on offer are equipped with manual transmissions, especially those that are affordable. Even for those who are accustomed to using a manual transmission, the experience of using one’s left hand to shift is just a little Continue reading “Rental Cars in Ireland”

About the Pangean Experience

“Pangaea” from the Greek “Pan” (across) and “Gaea” (the Earth).  Pangaea, the proto-continent, when all the world was one is the inspiration for this website.

This website is the home for a collection of travel articles, stories, blogs, and tips from the personal experience and research product of the Pangean team. Although the blogs and articles are written from a Canadian perspective, we hope the information and tips will be useful to all.  Pangean.org also welcomes input from all who share a love of travel and enjoy experiencing other places and cultures. Either leave your comments on one of the articles or drop us a line at: info@pangean.org

europe20161 Reunite Pangaea!